After our tough day from Puente la Reina to Estella, we had a good day yesterday, but walked most of the day in full sun without much access to water along the way. We knew there wouldn’t be many fuentes (fountains) along the way and had filled an extra water bottle, but we heard of some pilgrims who don’t actually carry water bottles, just drinking cups, and they were feeling pretty thirsty by the time they got to Los Arcos.
Last night we stayed in a brand new aubergue in Los Arcos. Albergue Casa de la Abuela opened on September 1st and we were its first Australian guests. Most of the other pilgrims staying last night were cyclists. Centrally located at the corner of Calle Major (the main street in any town or village) and the Plaza de la Fruta where the gorgeous 12th century Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos ( Church of St Mary of the Arches) dominates the square, the aubergue was originally the current owner’s wife’s grandmother’s house and is over 150 years old. It has an excellent kitchen for any pilgrims wanting to cook their own meal – we don’t, one of the joys of this trip is eating out every night and not worrying about gaining weigh! http://www.casadelaabuela.com We wish the owners well and hope their albergue does well for them.
We met up with our new friend Edith and a Belgian couple for a reviving pre-dinner drink, then joined them for dinner at a local restaurant – 11.5 euros for 3 courses including wine, water and bread. Great food, great company and good service. We asked the waiter about several dishes on the menu that we weren’t sure about, one of which he explained by pointing his fingers above his head and saying ‘Playboy’. Yep, it was rabbit.